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Vintage 1965 Mod Mohair Jacket
#1375
“Mod”-ified Mohair
jacket with a twisty cable trim on sleeves and collar has a deeply shaded
outline round pockets, front edges, and raglan shaping. Body of the jacket is
in stocking stitch.
MATERIALS:
Panda Supa-Fine Tweed Mohair: 17 (18, 19, 20) Balls Main Color (MC)
& 3 Balls (All Sizes) Contrast Color (CC)
1 Pair #6 Knitting Needles for Body of Garment
1 Pair #8 Knitting Needles for Collar
1 Pair #5 Knitting Needles for Sleeves
1 Double-Pointed Needle for Cable Pattern
1 Crochet Hook #7
MEASUREMENTS:
Bust = 32” (34”, 36”, 38”)
Length = 23 ½” (23 ¾”, 23 ¾”, 23 ¾”)
NOTE: For a loose jacket make size 6” larger.
GAUGE/TENSION:
4 ¾ sts = 1” in st-st on #6 needles
JACKET:
BACK:
With MC & #6 needles, cast on 87 (92, 97, 102) sts.
Work in st-st (k 1 row, p 1 row) for 8”, end on p row.
Inc 1 st each side of next row, then every 6th row 3
times = 95 (100, 105, 110) sts.
Work even until piece meas 12 ½” from bottom, end on p row.
Put marker each end of last row for underarm.
SHAPE ARMHOLE:
Dec 1 st each side of next row, then every other row 14 (17, 19,
21) times, every 4th row 5 (4, 3, 2) times = 55 (56, 59, 62) sts.; armhole meas 8 ½” (8 ¾”,
8 ¾”, 8 ¾”) straight up from markers.
Put marker each end of last row for end of armholes.
SHAPE YOKE:
Cast off 4 (4, 4, 5) sts at beg of next 2 rows, then dec 1 st each
side every row 9 times.
Cast off rem 29 (30, 33, 34) sts for back of neck.
LEFT FRONT:
With MC & #6 needles, cast on 48 (51, 53, 56) sts.
Work in st-st for 8”, end up on p row.
Inc 1 st at beg of next row, then every 6th row 3 times
= 52 (55, 57, 60) sts.
Work straight until work meas same as back to underarm, end at
armhole edge.
Put marker on work at arm side of last row for underarm.
SHAPE ARMHOLE, NECK, & YOKE:
Dec 1 st at armhole edge of next row, then every other row 19 (19,
17, 16) times, then every row 0 (0, 4, 6) times = 32 (35, 35, 37) sts.
Dec 1 st each side of next 5 rows for armhole & neck shaping =
22 (25, 25, 27) sts.
Put marker on work at armhole edge of last row for end of armhole.
Cont to dec 1 st at neck edge every row 9 (10, 10, 11) times; AT SAME TIME, for yoke cast off 3 (5, 5, 6) sts at beg of armhole edge once, then dec 1 st every
row 9 times. End off last st.
With pins, mark place of vertical buttonholes in sets of 2, evenly
spaced on centre edge of left front; allow 6 rows for each buttonhole with 4 rows bet, mark
1st set beg 1¼” from lower edge, 3rd set beg ½”below start of neck shaping, &
2nd set evenly spaced bet.
VERTICAL BUTTONHOLES:
1ST ROW (RS): K 4 sts at beg of centre edge, drop MC;
for buttonhole opening, join extra skein of MC & finish row.
2ND – 6TH ROWS: Work even on both sides at
once for 5 rows.
7TH ROW: With 1 strand of MC, k across all sts (close
buttonholes).
Break off extra skein MC
Work even for 3 rows.
Rep 1st to 7th rows for 2nd buttonhole
of set.
RIGHT FRONT:
Work as left front, form vertical buttonholes opp markers &
reverse shaping (arm side is at end of k row).
SLEEVES:
With MC & #5 needles, cast on 58 (58, 62, 62) sts.
Cont in cable patt as folls:
1ST ROW (WS): K 2 (2, 1, 1), * p 6, k 2 (2, 3, 3), rep from
* across, end p 6, k 2 (2, 1, 1).
2ND ROW (CABLE ROW): P 2 (2, 1, 1), * sl as if to p
next 3 sts on cable needle, hold at back of work, k next 3 sts, then k sts from cable needle, p 2 (2,
3, 3), rep from * across, end last rep. p 2 (2, 1, 1).
3RD, 5TH, 7TH, & 9TH
ROWS: Rep 1st row.
4TH, 6TH, 8TH, & 10TH
ROWS: P 2 (2, 1, 1), * k 6, p 2 (2, 3, 3), rep from * across, end k 6, p 2 (2, 1, 1).
Rep these 10 rows for cable patt, work even until piece meas 2½”
(2¼”, 2½”, 2¼”) from start.
Cast on 1 st each end of next row, then every 6th row 5
(4, 5, 4) times, every 4th row 8 (10, 8, 10) times, work added sts into patt = 86 (88, 90, 92) sts.
Work straight for 4 rows.
Cont in cable patt, inc 1 st each side every row 11 times, work added
sts into patt = 108 (110, 112, 114) sts.
Put marker on work each side of last row for underarm.
Sleeve is 13½” long.
SHAPE CAP OF SLEEVE:
Dec 1 st each side of next row, then every other row 24 (25, 24,
25) times, every row 9 times = 40 (40, 44, 44) sts. End on WS.
Put marker on work each side of last row for end of sleeve cap.
SADDLE SHOULDER:
NEXT ROW: Dec 1 st in each p 2 (2, 3, 3) rib.
Work even on rem 36 (36, 40, 40) sts (have 1 st less in each p rib
on RS of patt) for approx 3½” above last dec row, end on patt 10th row.
Put these sts on a st-holder for collar.
POCKETS (MAKE 2):
Beg at top edge, with MC & #6 needles, cast on
24 sts.
Work in st-st for 4½”.
Dec 1 st each side every row 3 times.
Cast off rem 18 sts.
Keep markers on work, steam-press pockets, fronts, & back
lightly, use steam iron or damp cloth & dry iron; DO NOT PRESS SLEEVES.
Sew sides of back & fronts tog.
Steam-press seams.
CONTRAST EDGING:
1ST ROW: Beg at top of left side seam, from RS,
with CC, work loosely 1 row of DC up armhole edge of left front, yoke, left front, lower
edge, up right front, yoke, & armhole edge to top of RS seam, work (1 DC, 1 CH, 1 DC) in
corners to keep work flat, 1 CH, turn.
2ND ROW: Work 1 DC into front lp of each 1 DC around
same edge, make 2 DC in each corner. CH 1, turn.
3RD ROW: Work DC in back lp of each DC around same
edge, work (1 DC, 1 CH, 1 DC) in corners. Fasten off.
Beg on RS with CC, work 3 rows of edging around back armholes,
yoke, & back of neck.
Beg on RS with CC, work 3 rows of edging around pockets
& inc in corners at top edge only.
Steam-press crocheted edges lightly.
FINISHING:
Sew sleeve seams.
With crocheted edging slightly over-lapping edges of sleeve
cap, pin cap of sleeves to front & back armholes, saddle of sleeves to yoke
edges of back & fronts; sew in place.
From WS, with MC, work 1 row DC around lower edge of
sleeves.
Face pockets with nylon tulle.
Sew pockets on fronts ½” from side seams & 1” from
lower edge.
COLLAR:
With MC & #8 needles, cast on 17 (17, 20, 20) sts
for left front; work with same needle across WS of left sleeve sts. from holder, k 1, * p 6, inc
1 st in next k-rib, rep. from * across, end p 6, k 1; cast on 24 (24, 28, 28) sts
on same needle for back of neck; from WS, work across right sleeve sts as for left
sleeve; then cast on 17 (17, 20, 20) sts for right front = 138 (138, 156, 156) sts.
Start with patt 2nd row & beg & end each
patt row with 2 (2, 3, 3) sts, work in cable patt as for sleeves on all sts for 21 rows.
With #6 needles, cont in cable patt for 20 rows more.
With #8 needles, cont in cable patt for 20 rows more,
end on 2nd row of patt (7 cable rows compl).
Cast off loosely in patt.
With CC edging slightly overlapping edge of collar,
using MC, sew cast-on edges of collar fronts & back to neck edges of jacket fronts &
back.
Fold collar in half to WS of neck; sew in place.
Stand collar up; from RS of jacket, use MC, DC open
sides of collar tog; make 2 button lps on left front edge of collar: 1st one 1” from
top & 1” from front edge, 2nd one 2” apart.
Sew buttons on right front edge of collar opp button
lps.
Face front edges with grosgrain ribbon.
Cut ribbon facing under buttonholes.
Whip cut ribbon edges neatly to buttonholes.
Sew buttons on left front opp buttonholes.
Close neck edge with snap fastener.
ENJOY!
HANDY ABBREVIATIONS:
* repeat instructions
following single asterisk as directed
* * repeat instructions between
asterisks as many times as directed or repeat
from a given set of instructions
” inch[es]
Alt alternate
Approx approximately
Beg begin/beginning
Bet between
Bl back loop[s]
Bo bobble
Bp back post
Bpdc back post double crochet
Bpsc back post single
crochet
Bptr back post
treble/triple crochet
Ca color A
Cb color B
Cc contrasting color
Ch chain stitch
Ch refers to chain or space
previously
made: e.g ch-1
space
ch-sp chain space
Cl cluster
Cm centimeter[s]
Compl complete
Cont continue
Dc double crochet
Dc2tog double crochet 2 stitches
together
Dec decrease/decreases/decreasing
Dtr/Dtrc double treble/triple crochet
fl front loop[s]
Foll follow/follows/following
Fp front post
Fpdc front post double crochet
Fpsc front post single crochet
Fptr front post treble/triple
crochet
G gram
Hdc half double crochet
Hk hook
Inc increase/increases/increasing
Incl inclusive
K knit
lh left
hand
lp[s] loop[s]
M meter[s]
M mesh
M1 make 1 [bring or
leave yarn forward before K st, or winding yarn around needle before P st]
Mc main color
Meas measure
Mm millimeter[s]
MOSS ST moss st [K1, P1 alt on uneven number of sts]
O over [yarn
over]
Oz ounce[s]
P picot or purl
Pat[s] or patt pattern[s]
Pc st
or Pc popcorn
stitch
Pm place marker
Prev previous
PSSO pass
slip stitch over
Rem remain/remaining
Rep repeat[s]
REV ST ST reverse
stocking stitch [right side P WS K]
RH right
hand
Rnd[s] round[s]
Rs right side
Rsf right side facing
Sc single crochet
Sc2tog single crochet 2 stitches
together
Sdc short double
crochet [half double crochet]
Sk skip
Sl st slip stitch
Sp[s] space[s]
St[s] stitch[es]
Tch or t-ch turning chain
Tbl through back loop
Tbs through
back of stitches
Tog together
Tr or Trc treble/triple crochet
Trtrc or T Trc triple treble/triple crochet
Ws wrong side
YB yarn
back
Yd[s] yard[s]
YF yarn
forward
Yo yarn over
Yoh yarn over hook
