Free Pattern - 1943 Tailored Short Sleeve Jacket & Calot Hat #971

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Vintage 1943 Tailored Short Sleeve Jacket & Calot Hat #971

SIZE: 

Instructions are for size 12 with changes for sizes 14 & 16 shown in brackets.

JACKET MATERIALS:
Clark’s Anchor Cronita , 20 [24 – 28] balls
Steel crochet hook #3
4 Buttons or ¾” Buttonmold
Shoulder pads

CALOT MATERIALS:
Clark’s Anchor Cronita , 1 balls
Steel crochet hook #3

6 Flat Buttons 1”

MEASUREMENTS:
Bust [jacket buttoned] 32” [34” – 36”]
Width across back at underarm 15” [16” – 17”]
Width across each front at underarm 9 ¼” [9 ¾” – 10 ¼”]
Width between shoulders 12 ½” [13” – 13 ½”]
Length from top of shoulders 21” [22” – 22”]
Side Seam 13” [13 ½” – 13 ½”]
Depth of armhole 7 ½” [8” – 8”]
Length of sleeve underarm seam 5” [5 ½” – 5 ½”]
Width of sleeve at upperarm 13” [13 ½” – 13 ½”]

JACKET GAUGE:
13 sts = 2”
11 rows = 2”

CALOT GAUGE:
13 sts = 2”
9 rows = 2”

NOTE:  USE DOUBLE THREAD THROUGHOUT.

JACKET:
BACK:
Ch 93 [99 – 105] to meas 14 ½” [15 ½” – 16 ½”].

1^ST ROW:  Sc in 2^nd ch from hk, insert hk in next ch & pull lp thru, yo & draw thru 1 lp, yo & draw thru 2 lps [a ch-sc made], * sc in next ch, ch-sc in next ch.  Rep from * across.  There are 92 [98 – 104] sts.  Ch 1, turn.

2^ND ROW:  * Sc in next ch-sc, ch-sc in next sc.  Rep from * across.  Ch 1 turn.

Rep 2^nd row until piece meas 2”. 

Being careful to keep continuity of patt, dec 1 st at both ends of next row & every 4^th row thereafter until there rem 80 [86 – 92] sts – to dec at beg of row, sk 1^st st; at end of row, do not work in last st.

 Work straight until piece meas 7” in all.

Being careful to keep continuity of patt inc 1 st at both ends of next row & every 3^rd row thereafter until there are 98 [104 – 110] sts – to inc sts work 2 sts in 1 st.

Work straight until piece meas in al 13” [13 ½” – 13 ½”].

SHAPE ARMHOLES:  

Sl st across 5 [5 -6] sts, work across to last 5 [5 – 6] sts.

Now dec 1 st at both ends of every other row until there rem 76 [80 – 84] sts.

Work straight until piece meas from 1^st row of armhole shaping 7 ½” [8” – 8”].

SHAPE SHOULDERS:
NEXT ROW:  Sl st across 5 [5 – 6] sts, work across to last 5 [5 – 6] sts.  Turn.

Rep last row 2 more times.

FOLLOWING ROW:  Sl st across 4 [5 – 4] sts, work across to last 4 [5 – 4] sts.  Turn.

Rep last row once more.

There rem for back of neck 30 [30 – 32] sts.  Fasten off.

LEFT FRONT:  

Ch 59 [63 – 67] to meas 10” [10 ½” – 11”].

Work in patt as for back until piece meas 2”.

Dec 1 st at side edge on next row & every 4^th row thereafter until there rem 52 [56 – 60] sts.

Work straight until piece meas 7” in all.

Inc 1 st at side edge on next row & every 3^rd row thereafter until there are 61 [65 – 69] sts.

Work straight until piece meas 12” in all.

SHAPE LAPEL: 

Inc 1 st every 2” thereafter until 4 sts have been inc on this edge.

However

When piece meas 13” [13 ½” – 13 ½”]  starting at side edged, sl st across 5 [5 – 6] sts.

Dec 1 st ar armhole edge every other row 6 [7 – 7] times.

When armhole & lapel shaping is finished, there are on row 54 [57 – 60] sts.

Work straight until piece meas from 1^st row of armhole shaping 7” [7 ½” – 7 ½”].

Starting at front edge, sl st across 14 [15 – 15] sts, finish row.

NEXT ROW:  Work across to last 4 [4 – 5] sts.

FOLLOWING ROW:  Sl st across 4 [4 – 5] sts, finish row.

Rep last 2 rows once more.  This completes neck shaping.

SHAPE SHOULDER:
1^ST ROW:  Starting at armhole edge, sl st across 5 [5 – 6] sts, finish row.

2^ND ROW:  Work across to last 5 [5 – 6] sts.

3^RD ROW:  Same as 1^st row.

4^TH ROW:  Work across to last 4 [5 – 4] sts.  Fasten off.

RIGHT FRONT:  

Work to correspond with left front, making buttonhole 3 sts in from front edge, when piece meas 4 ½” & meas from 1^st buttonhole every 2 ½” thereafter; until 4 in all are made – to make buttonhole, ch 7, sk 7 sts; on next row work 7 sts over the ch.

SLEEVES:  

Ch 75 [79 – 79].

Work in patt inc 1 st at both ends of 6^th row & every 5^th row thereafter, until there are 84 [88 – 88] sts.

Work straight, until piece meas in all 5” [5 ½” – 5 ½”].

SHAPE TOP:  

Sl st across 5 [5 – 6] sts.  Work across to last 5 [5 – 6] sts.

Dec 1 st at both ends of every 3^rd row until 60 sts rem.

Dec 2 sts at both ends of each row until 20 sts rem.  Fasten off.

COLLAR:  

Starting at outside edge, ch 101 [105 – 105].

Work in patt, dec 1 st at both ends of every 3^rd row until piece meas 2 ½”.  Fasten off.

POCKET:  [MAKE 2]:  

Ch 35.

Work 2 rows in patt.

Dec 1 st on top edge only on every other row until 29 sts rem.

Work 2 rows straight.

NEXT ROW:  Starting at bottom edge, work across 18 sts, ch 12, turn.

Work in patt over ch & rem of row.

This is half of pocket.  

Work other half to correspond with 1^st half, making incs to correspond with decs.  Fasten off.

BELT:  

Ch 95 & work 3 rows of patt.  Fasten off.

BUTTONS:  

With single thread, ch 2.

1^ST RND:  7 Sc in 2^nd ch from hk.  Do not join rnds & work only in back lp of each st.

2^ND RND:  2 Sc in each st around.

3^RD RND:  * Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc.  Rep from * around.  

Cont thus, inc as nec to keep work flat until piece covers surface of buttonmold.

NEXT RND:  Sc in each st around.  

Sl button inside this piece & close opening by working off 2 sc as 1 sc until opening is closed.  Fasten off.

FINISHING:  

Sew underarm & shoulder seams

Sew collar in place, leaving lapels free.

Attach double thread at bottom of right underarm seam & work sc all around edges of garment.  Join.

2^ND RND:  * Ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in base of next sc.  Rep from * around.  Join.

3^RD RND:  * Ch 2, sc in sk sc of prev rnd.  Rep from * around.  Fasten off.

Finish edge of Belt in same way.

Sew belt in position, from seam to seam across back.

Finish edges of Pockets in same way.

Sew edges of pocket slit tog, keeping edging uppermost.

Sew on pockets as in photo.

Sew on buttons.

Sew sleeve seams & sew sleeves in making 4 pleats across top 5” at shoulder.

Work edging around lower part of sleeve & onto outer part of sleeve for 2”, working 1^st row of sc thru sleeve sts.

Press thru damp cloth.

Sew in shoulder pads.

CALOT HAT:  

Ch 27 to meas 3 ½”.

1^ST ROW:  Sc in 2^nd ch from hk, insert hk in next ch & pull lp thru, yo & draw thru 1 lp, yo & draw thru 2 lps, [a ch-sc made], * sc in next ch, ch-sc in next ch.  Rep from * across [26 sts].  Ch 1, turn.  [This is lower edge.]

2^ND ROW:  * Sc in next ch-sc, ch-sc in next sc.  Rep from * across ending with ch-sc in last sc [26 sts].  Do not ch to turn.  [This is upper edge.]

Rep 2^nd row until lower edge meas desired headsize [about 22”].  Fasten off.

Sew narrow edges tog for back seam.

With right side facing, attach thread at upper edge & work sc along upper edge holding in slightly while working.  Join with sl st in 1^st sc made.

2^ND RND:  Ch 1, sc in base of next sc, * ch 1, sk 1 sc, sc in base of next sc.  Rep from * around.  Do not join rnds.

3^RD RND:  * Ch 1, sc in base on next sc skipped on 2^nd rnd.  Rep from * around.  Fasten off. 

With wrong side facing, attach thread at lower edge & work sc all around, being careful to preserve desired headsize.

Work 2^nd & 3^rd rnds same as edging on upper rnd.  Fasten off.

BUTTONS:  

Ch 2.

1^ST RND:  7 Sc in 2^nd ch from hk.  Do not join rnds & hereafter work in back lp only of each st.

2^ND RND:  2 Sc in each st around [14 sts].

3^RD RND:  * Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st.  Rep from * around [21 sts].

Cont thus inc as necessary to keep work flat until piece is same area as top of button.

Work 1 rnd straight.

Slip button inside this piece.

NEXT RND:  * Sc in next sc, work off next 2 sc as 1 sc.  Rep from * until opening is closed.

Cover other 5 buttons in same way.

Sew at even intervals along upper edge of Calot, having buttons extend above edge.

ENJOY!

CROCHET ABBREVIATIONS:

*                                   repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed

* *                                repeat instructions between asterisks as many times as directed or                                      repeat from a given set of instructions

”                                   inch(es)

Alt                              alternate

Approx                      approximately

Beg                             begin/beginning

Bet                             between

Bl                                back loop(s)

Bo                               bobble

Bp                               back post

Bpdc                          back post double crochet

Bpsc                           back post single crochet

Bptr                           back post treble/triple crochet

Ca                               color A

Cb                               color B

Cc                               contrasting color

Ch                               chain stitch

Ch                               refers to chain or space previously

made: e.g                  ch-1 space

ch-sp                          chain space

Cl                               cluster

Cm                              centimeter(s)

Cont                           continue

Dc                               double crochet

Dc2tog                      double crochet 2 stitches together

Dec                             decrease/decreases/decreasing

Dtr/Dtrc                   double treble/triple crochet

fl                                front loop(s)

Foll                            follow/follows/following

Fp                               front post

Fpdc                           front post double crochet

Fpsc                           front post single crochet

Fptr                           front post treble/triple crochet

G                                 gram

Hdc                            half double crochet

Hk                               hook

Inc                               increase/increases/increasing

lp(s)                           loop(s)

M                                 meter(s)

M                                 mesh

Mc                               main color

Meas                          measure

Mm                              millimeter(s)

O                                 over (yarn over)

Oz                               ounce(s)

P                                 picot

Pat(s) or patt          pattern(s)

Pc                               popcorn

Pm                               place marker

Prev                           previous

Rem                            remain/remaining

Rep                             repeat(s)

Rnd(s)                        round(s)

Rs                               right side

Sc                               single crochet

Sc2tog                      single crochet 2 stitches together

Sdc                             short double crochet (half double crochet)

Sk                               skip

Sl st                           slip stitch

Sp(s)                          space(s)

St(s)                           stitch(es)

Tch or t-ch               turning chain

Tbl                              through back loop

Tog                             together

Tr or Trc                  treble/triple crochet

Trtrc                         triple treble/triple crochet

Ws                              wrong side

Yd(s)                          yard(s)

Yo                               yarn over

Yoh                             yarn over hook