Saturday, November 17, 2018

Free Pattern - Vintage Derby Day Dress & Cape #1114

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Vintage Derby Day Dress & Cape #1114

SIZE:
Directions are for Size 12.
Changes for Sizes 14 and 16 are in parentheses.

MATERIALS:
Beehive Catriona Crepe, 1 oz skeins:
Sizes 12 & 14 - 21 skeins of Navy
Size 16 - 22 skeins
3 skeins of Fuchsia & 1 skein of White for all sizes
Royal Society Aluminum or Plastic Knitting Needles, 1 pair #2/2¾ mm
Royal Society Steel Circular Knitting Needle #2/2¾ mm
Steel Crochet Hook #1
Buttons
Snap fasteners
10” Crown Zipper
Shoulder pads
1 yd elastic ¾” wide
1 yd grosgrain ribbon 1½” wide
Buckle.

GAUGE:
9½ sts = 1”
12 rows = 1”

STITCH:
stockinette st [st st] = k 1 row & p 1 row

MEASUREMENTS:
Sizes



12



14



16
Bust
32”
34”
36”
Width across back at underarm
16”
17”
18”
Width across each front at underarm including facing
10½”
11”
11½”
Width across back above armhole shaping
13½”
14”
14½”
Length of side seam to waist
7¾”
7¾”
8”
Length of sleeve seam
4”
4”
4½”
Width across sleeve at upperarm
12½”
13”
13½”
Length of skirt from lower edge to waistband
30”
30½”
30½”

BODICE:
BACK
:
Starting at lower edge with Navy & knitting needles, cast on 128 (136, 142) sts.

Work in st st, inc 1 st at both ends of every 5th row until there are on needle 164 (172, 178) sts.

Work without inc until piece meas 7¾ (7¾, 8) inches.

SHAPE ARMHOLES:
Bind off 6 sts at beg of next 2 rows.

Bind off 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows.

Bind off 2 sts at beg of next 4 rows.

Dec 1 st at end of each row until there rem 128 (132, 136) sts.

Work without dec until piece meas from 1st row of armhole shaping 7¾ (7¾, 8) inches.

SHAPE SHOULDERS:
Bind off 5 sts at beg of next 16 (14, 14) rows.

Bind oft at beg of next 2 rows - (6, 7) sts.

Bind off rem 48 (50, 52) sts for back of neck.

LEFT FRONT:
Start at lower edge cast on 84 (88, 92) sts.

Work in st st, inc 1 st at side edge every 5th row until there are on needle 102 (106, 110) sts.

Work without inc until piece meas 7¾ (7¾, 8) inches, end at side edge.

SHAPE ARMHOLE:
Bind off at armhole edge on next row & every other row 6 sts once; 3 sts once; 2 sts once (twice, twice).

Dec 1 st at armhole edge every other row until there rem 84 (86, 89) sts.

Work without dec until piece meas from 1st row of armhole shaping, end at front edge 6 (6, 6½) inches.

SHAPE NECK:
Bind off at beg of next row 35 (38, 38) sts. P across. 

Next row: K across.

Bind off 2 sts at beg of next row.

Dec 1 st at neck edge until there rem 40 (41, 42) sts.

Work without dec until piece meas from 1st row of armhole shaping, end at armhole edge 7¾ (7¾, 8) inches.

SHAPE SHOULDER:
Bind off 5 sts at beg of next row & at same edge every other row 8 (7, 7) times. 

Bind off - (6, 7) sts.

RIGHT FRONT:
Work as for Left Front, reverse shaping & make set of buttonholes when piece meas 1½” & every 2¾” thereafter until 5 sets of button­holes in all are made.

NOTE:
To make a set of buttonholes, on one row k 5, bind off 3 sts, k 10, bind off 3 sts; on next row cast on 3 sts to replace each set of 3 sts bound off.

SLEEVES:
Starting at cuff cast on 108 (112, 116) sts.

Work in st st for ½”, end with k row. 

NEXT ROW: K across (hemline).

Cont in st st, inc 1 st at both ends of every 6th row until there are on needle 118 (124, 128) sts.

Work without inc until piece meas from hemline 4 (4, 4½) inches.

SHAPE TOP:
Bind off 7 sts at beg of next 2 rows.

Bind off 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows.

Dec 1 st at end of each row 8 (8, 12) times.

Dec 1 st at both ends of every 3rd row 9 times.

Dec 1 st at end of each row 6 times.

Dec 1 st at both ends of each row until there rem 16 (22, 22) sts. Bind off.

COLLAR:
Start at outside edge, cast on 142 (146, 150) sts.

Work in st st for ½”, end with k row. 

NEXT ROW: K across (hemline).

Cont in st st, dec 7 sts evenly spaced every ½” until there rem 121 (125, 129) sts.

Work without dec until piece meas 2” from hemline. Bind off.

CAPE:
RIGHT FRONT:
Start at lower edge with Fuchsia & knitting pins, cast on 50 sts.

Work in st st, inc 1 st at end of each k row 12 times (62 sts), end with k row.

Break off & lay this piece aside to be worked later.

BACK:
Start at lower edge with Fuchsia & knitting pins, cast on 346 sts.

Work in st st, inc 1 st at both ends of every k row until there are 370 sts on needle, end with k row.

Break off & lay this piece aside.

LEFT FRONT:
Start at lower edge with Fuchsia & knitting pins, cast on 50 sts, inc 1 st at beg of every k row until there are 62 sts on needle, end with k row.

With circular needle k across, with same needle k across sts of Back, then k across sts of Right Front (hemline). There are 494 sts on needle.

Now work as follows:
1ST ROW: K 60, k 2 tog, place marker, k 2 tog, k 366, k 2 tog, place marker, k 2 tog, k 60. 

2ND ROW: P across sl markers. 

3RD ROW: K across to 2 sts before 1st marker, k 2 tog, sl marker, k 2 tog, k across to 2 sts before 2nd marker, k 2 tog, sl marker, k 2 tog, k to end of row. 

4TH ROW: Rep 2nd row. 

5TH TO 12TH ROWS INCL: Rep 3rd & 4th rows alternately. 

13TH ROW: Inc 1 st in first st (neck shaping). K across to 2 sts before 1st marker, k 2 tog, sl marker, k 2 tog, k 14, k 2 tog, (k 34, k 2 tog) 9 times: k 14, k 2 tog. sl marker, k 2 tog, k across to last st, inc 1 st in last st. 

14TH ROW: Rep 2nd row. 

15TH ROW: Inc 1 st in first st, k across to 2 sts before 1st marker, k 2 tog, sl marker, k 2 tog, k across to 2 sts before 2nd marker, k 2 tog, sl marker, k 2 tog, k across to last st, inc 1 st in last st. 

16TH ROW: Rep 2nd row. 

17TH TO 24TH ROWS INCL: Rep 15th & 16th rows alternately. Break off, attach White.

25TH ROW: Inc 1 st in first st, k across to 2 sts before 1st marker, k 2 tog, sl marker, k 2 tog, k 7, k 2 tog, (k 33, k 2 tog) 9 times; k 8, k 2 tog, sl marker, k 2 tog, k across to last st, inc 1 st in last st. 

26TH ROW: Rep 2nd row. 

27TH TO 30TH ROWS INCL: Rep 15th & 16th rows alternately. 

31ST ROW: Cast on 3 sts at beg of row, k across to 2 sts before 1st marker, k 2 tog, sl marker, k 2 tog, k across to 2 sts before 2nd marker, k 2 tog, sl marker, k 2 tog, k to end of row. 

32ND ROW: Cast on 3 sts at beg of row & p across, sl markers. 

33RD & 34TH ROWS: Rep 31st & 32nd rows. 

35TH ROW: Cast on 4 sts at beg of row, k across to 2 sts before 1st marker, k 2 tog, sl marker, k 2 tog, k across to 2 sts before 2nd marker, k 2 tog, sl marker, k 2 tog, k to end of row. 

36TH ROW: Cast on 4 sts at beg of row & p across, sl markers. Break off.

Attach Navy & change to knitting pins.

WORK AS FOLLOWS:
1ST ROW: K 61, (k 2 tog) twice; k 68, turn & work over these sts only for right shoulder. 

2ND ROW: Cast on 3 sts, p 72 incl 3 cast on sts. Turn. 

3RD ROW: K across. 

4TH ROW: P 71, p 2 tog, p 1. Turn. 

5TH ROW: K across dec 6 sts evenly spaced. 

6TH ROW: P 72, p 2 tog, p 1. Turn. 

7TH ROW: K across.

Cont to work in this manner, dec 1 st on each p row, always work 1 st more bet dec until all sts on left hand needle are worked off 

AT THE SAME TIME dec 6 sts evenly spaced on every 6th row 4 times in all, then dec 7 sts evenly spaced every 6th row 6 times.

ALSO AT THE SAME TIME when Navy piece meas 1½”, end at shoulder edge, dec 1 st at shoulder edge every 3rd row 6 times.

Dec 1 st at shoulder edge every other row 6 times.

Dec 1 st at shoulder edge every row 4 times.

Then at shoulder edge bind off at beg of every other row 3 sts once; 7 sts once; 5 sts once; 6 sts once. Break off.

Pull yarn thru rem sts.

BACK:
Attach Navy to where sts were divided & with knitting pins, cast on 3 sts, k 3 cast on sts, k 2 tog, k 170. k 2 tog, turn

Cast on 3 sts & p across (178 sts on needle).

Work in st st, dec 1 st at both ends of every k row 6 times.

Dec 1 st at both ends of every row until 94 sts rem.

Bind off 3 sts at beg of next 12 rows.

Bind off rem 58 sts.

LEFT FRONT:
Work as for Right Front, reverse shaping.

SKIRT:
FRONT:
Start at lower edge with Fuchsia & knitting needles, cast on 342 (350, 358) sts.

Work in st st for 2”, end with k row. 

NEXT ROW: K across (hemline).

Cont in st st until piece meas 2” from hemline, end with p row. Break off.

Attach White & work in st st for 1”, end with pl row. Break off.

Attach Navy & work in st st until piece meas 3½” from hemline, end with p row.

1ST DEC ROW: K 21 (25, 29) sts, k 2 tog, (k 31, k 2 tog) 9 times; k 22 (26, 30) sts (10 sts dec).

Cont in st st, dec 10 sts every 1½” as follows, always end with p row. 

2ND DEC ROW: K 20 (24, 28) sts, k 2 tog, (k 30, k 2 tog) 9 times; k 22 (26, 30) sts. 

3RD DEC ROW: K 20 (24, 28), k 2 tog, (k 29, k 2 tog) 9 times; k 21 (25, 29). 

4TH DEC ROW: K 19 (23, 27), k 2 tog, (k 28, k 2 tog) 9 times; k 21 (25, 29). 

5TH DEC ROW: K 19 (23, 27), k 2 tog, (k 27, k 2 tog) 9 times; k 20 (24, 28).

6TH DEC ROW: K 18 (22, 26), k 2 tog, (k 26, k 2 tog) 9 times; k 20 (24, 28). 

7TH DEC ROW: K 18 (22, 26), k 2 tog, (k 25, k 2 tog) 9 times; k 19 (23, 27). 

8TH DEC ROW: K 17 (21, 25), k 2 tog, (k 24, k 2 tog) 9 times; k 19 (23, 27). 

9TH DEC ROW: K 17 (21, 25), k 2 tog, (k 23, k 2 tog) 9 times; k 18 (22, 26).

10TH DEC ROW: K 16 (20, 24), k 2 tog, (k 22, k 2 tog) 9 times; k 18 (22, 26). 

11TH DEC ROW: K 16 (20, 24), k 2 tog, (k 21, k 2 tog) 9 times; k 17 (21, 25). 

12TH DEC ROW: K 15 (19, 23), k 2 tog, (k 20, k 2 tog) 9 times; k 17 (21, 25). 

13TH DEC ROW: K 15 (19, 23), k 2 tog, (k 19, k 2 tog) 9 times; k 16 (20, 24). 

14TH DEC ROW: K 14 (18, 22), k 2 tog, (k 18, k 2 tog) 9 times; k 16 (20, 24). 

15TH DEC ROW: k 14 (18, 22), k 2 tog, (k 17, k 2 tog) 9 times; k 15 (19, 23). 

16TH DEC ROW: K 13 (17, 21), k 2 tog, (k 16, k 2 tog) 9 times; k 15 (19, 23).

Now dec every inch as follows, end with p row. 

17TH DEC ROW: K 13 (17, 21), k 2 tog, (k 15, k 2 tog) 9 times; k 14 (18, 22). 

18TH DEC ROW: K 12 (16, 20), k 2 tog, (k 14, k 2 tog) 9 times; k 14 (18, 22). 
19th dec row: K 12 (16, 20), k 2 tog, (k 13, k 2 tog) 9 times; k 13 (17, 21).

Now dec every ½” as follows, end with p row. 

20TH DEC ROW: K 11 (15, 19), k 2 tog, (k 12, k 2 tog) 9 times; k 13 (17, 21). 

21ST DEC ROW: K 11 (15, 19), k 2 tog, (k 11, k 2 tog) 9 times; k 12 (16, 20). 

22ND DEC ROW: K 10 (14, 18), k 2 tog, (k 10, k 2 tog) 9 times; k 12 (16, 20). 

There are on needle 122 (130, 138) sts.

Work without dec until piece meas from hem­line 30 (30½, 30½) inches. Bind off.

BACK:
Work exactly as for Front.

BELT:
Start at one end with Navy & knitting pins, cast on 20 sts.

Work in st st for length desired. Bind off.

Block to meas given.

Sew up side seams of skirt, leave 6” free at top of left side for zipper.

Turn hem to wrong side & sew in place.

Sew narrow hem to wrong side at zipper opening.

BEADING:
Start at skirt opening with wrong side facing, * ch 6, sk 3 sts on 4th row down from waist, sc in next st, rep from * across. Break off.

Sew up side seams of Bodice, leave 4” free at left side for zipper.

Sew up shoulder & sleeve seams.

Sew in sleeves.

Turn hem of sleeve to wrong side & sew in place.

Turn front edges 1¼” to wrong side, matching buttonholes, & sew in place.

Buttonhole st around buttonholes.

Work row of sc around neck edge.

Turn hem of collar to wrong side.

Turn small hem at ends of collar & sew in place.

Sew on collar.

Turn small hem to wrong side at zipper opening.

Sew bodice to skirt.

Sew in zipper.

Cut elastic to waist meas & run thru Beading at waist.

Sew 2 snap fasteners at neck opening.

Sew 2 snap fasteners on right side of neck opening & 1 snap fastener at center back for cape-collar.

Sew shoulder seams of cape-collar.

Turn hem to wrong side & sew in place.

Make row of sc around neck edge, matching colors.

Sew snap fastener at front neck edges.

Sew snap fastener at center back neck edge.

Fasten collar to snap fasteners on bodice.

Turn collar over cape.

Sew on buttons to cor­res with buttonholes.

With Navy buttonhole st around buckle.

Sew grosgrain ribbon along center of belt on wrong side.

Turn narrow hems to wrong side of belt, shape 1 end to point & sew in place.

Sew on buckle.

Make 2 chains 3½” long & sew around belt near buckle.

ENJOY!

HANDY ABBREVIATIONS:

*                                   repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed
* *                                repeat instructions between asterisks as many times as directed or                                      repeat from a given set of instructions
”                                   inch(es)
Alt                              alternate
Approx                      approximately
Beg                             begin/beginning
Bet                             between
Bl                                back loop(s)
Bo                               bobble
Bp                               back post
Bpdc                          back post double crochet
Bpsc                           back post single crochet
Bptr                           back post treble/triple crochet
Ca                               color A
Cb                               color B
Cc                               contrasting color
Ch                               chain stitch
Ch                               refers to chain or space previously
made: e.g                  ch-1 space
ch-sp                          chain space
Cl                               cluster
Cm                              centimeter(s)
Compl                         complete
Cont                           continue
Dc                               double crochet
Dc2tog                      double crochet 2 stitches together
Dec                             decrease/decreases/decreasing
Dtr/Dtrc                   double treble/triple crochet
fl                                front loop(s)
Foll                            follow/follows/following
Fp                               front post
Fpdc                           front post double crochet
Fpsc                           front post single crochet
Fptr                           front post treble/triple crochet
G                                 gram
Hdc                            half double crochet
Hk                               hook
Inc                               increase/increases/increasing
Incl                             inclusive
K                                 knit
lp(s)                           loop(s)
M                                 meter(s)
M                                 mesh
Mc                               main color
Meas                          measure
Mm                              millimeter(s)
O                                 over (yarn over)
Oz                               ounce(s)
P                                 picot or purl
Pat(s) or patt          pattern(s)
Pc st or Pc              popcorn stitch
Pm                               place marker
Prev                           previous
PSSO                         pass slip stitch over
Rem                            remain/remaining
Rep                             repeat(s)
Rnd(s)                        round(s)
Rs                               right side
Sc                               single crochet
Sc2tog                      single crochet 2 stitches together
Sdc                             short double crochet (half double crochet)
Sk                               skip
Sl st                           slip stitch
Sp(s)                          space(s)
St(s)                           stitch(es)
Tch or t-ch               turning chain
Tbl                              through back loop
Tog                             together
Tr or Trc                  treble/triple crochet
Trtrc or T Trc         triple treble/triple crochet
Ws                              wrong side
YB                               yarn back
Yd(s)                          yard(s)
YF                               yarn forward
Yo                               yarn over
Yoh                             yarn over hook