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Vintage 1970s Wedding Dress
with Lace Bodice #1297
SIZE:
Small [8-10] & Medium [12-14].
Small [8-10] & Medium [12-14].
Directions are for size Small with changes for Medium in brackets.
MATERIALS:
Spinnerin Elf Sport Weight Yarn, 1 oz: 31 [37]
1 Pair Knitting Needles #4
McCalls Pattern #5599
3 ¼ yds Dress Fabric, 45” Wide [Skirt]
3 1/8 yds Lining Fabric, 45” Wide
12 yds Tulle or Netting, 72” Wide
Lace Seam Binding
7 Small Buttons
1 Zipper, 22”
6 Medium Snaps
Spinnerin Elf Sport Weight Yarn, 1 oz: 31 [37]
1 Pair Knitting Needles #4
McCalls Pattern #5599
3 ¼ yds Dress Fabric, 45” Wide [Skirt]
3 1/8 yds Lining Fabric, 45” Wide
12 yds Tulle or Netting, 72” Wide
Lace Seam Binding
7 Small Buttons
1 Zipper, 22”
6 Medium Snaps
GAUGE/TENSION:
4 ½ Sts = 1”
8 Rows = 1”
4 ½ Sts = 1”
8 Rows = 1”
NOTE:
Finished meas are based on fabric patt. The bodice is adjusted to patt by blocking.
Finished meas are based on fabric patt. The bodice is adjusted to patt by blocking.
Any adjustments in length from waist to underarm, neck & shoulders should
be worked out in advance.
Block pieces while working to get correct lengths.
PATTERN [WORKED OVER MULTIPLE OF
4 STS]:
PATT ROW: * K1, YO, P2 tog, K1, rep from * to end.
PATT ROW: * K1, YO, P2 tog, K1, rep from * to end.
Rep this row for patt.
BODICE CENTER FRONT:
Cast on 24 [28] sts, & beg patt.
Cast on 24 [28] sts, & beg patt.
Work 10 rows.
Inc 1 st each side of next row, then every 11th
row 7 times. = 40 [44].
Work to 12” [12 ½”] from beg or needed length from waist to
neck edge.
NECK:
In patt, work 12 [13] sts, sl to holder, bind off center 16 [18] sts, compl row.
In patt, work 12 [13] sts, sl to holder, bind off center 16 [18] sts, compl row.
In patt, dec 1 st at neck edge EVERY OTHER row 4 times. = 8 [9] sts.
Work even for ¾” & end at side edge.
SHOULDERS:
In patt, bind off 2 sts EVERY OTHER row 3 times, 2 [3] sts once.
In patt, bind off 2 sts EVERY OTHER row 3 times, 2 [3] sts once.
Sl sts from holder to needle. Work as other side, but
reverse shaping.
LEFT SIDE FRONT:
Cast on 16 sts.
Cast on 16 sts.
Mark beg of row for front edge & end of row for side
edge.
Beg patt & work 3 rows.
Inc 1 st at side edge, then every 8th row 5
times, & AT SAME TIME when
10 rows from beg,
Dec 1 st at front edge, then every 11th row 7
times.
Work to 7” [7 ½”] from beg or needed length to underarm
& end at side edge.
ARMHOLES:
In patt, bind off 4 sts once, then dec 1 st at armhole edge EVERY OTHER row 4 times.
In patt, bind off 4 sts once, then dec 1 st at armhole edge EVERY OTHER row 4 times.
When all shaping is compl, work even on 6 sts until piece
meas 6 rows less than center to shoulder.
SHOULDER:
In patt, at side edge bind off 2 sts EVERY OTHER row 3 times.
In patt, at side edge bind off 2 sts EVERY OTHER row 3 times.
RIGHT SIDE FRONT:
Work same as left side front, but reverse shaping.
Work same as left side front, but reverse shaping.
LEFT CENTER BACK:
Cast on 14 [18] sts.
Cast on 14 [18] sts.
1ST ROW [WS]: K2 [garter st edging at back
opening], work in patt to end.
2ND ROW: Work in patt to last 2 sts, K2.
Rep these 2 rows for patt until 10 rows from beg.
Inc 1 st side edge of next row, then every 11th
row 7 times. = 22 [26] sts.
Work even until piece meas same as center front to
shoulder.
SHOULDER:
At side edge bind off 2 sts EVERY OTHER row 3 times, 2 [3] sts once. In patt, compl row.
At side edge bind off 2 sts EVERY OTHER row 3 times, 2 [3] sts once. In patt, compl row.
Bind off rem 14 [17] sts for back of neck.
RIGHT CENTER BACK:
Work same as left center, but reverse shaping.
Work same as left center, but reverse shaping.
RIGHT SIDE BACK:
Work same as right side front.
Work same as right side front.
SLEEVES:
Cast on 96 [100] sts.
Cast on 96 [100] sts.
Work in patt for 6 rows.
Dec 1 st each side of next row, then every 7th
row 15 times. = 64 [68] sts.
Work to 15” from beg, or needed length to underarm, &
allow for 3” cuff, plus 1” ruffle.
CAP:
In patt, bind off 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows.
In patt, bind off 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows.
Dec 1 st each side every 5th row 9 [10] times.
Work even for 2 rows.
Bind off 2 sts at beg of next 10 rows.
Bind off rem 18 [20] sts.
Approx 5” from beg of cap decs, place markers at each side
of cap.
If you want a lined sleeve, at this point trace knitted
sleeve for sleeve lining patt piece.
Add 5/8” seam allow around entire outer outer edge &
cut notches at sleeve markers.
CUFFS [MAKE 2]:
Cast on 36 [40] sts.
Cast on 36 [40] sts.
Work in patt for 4”, or 1” more than needed length.
RUFFLES:
BODICE RUFFLE:
Cast on 9 sts.
BODICE RUFFLE:
Cast on 9 sts.
1ST ROW: K1, work in patt to end.
2ND ROW: Work in patt to last st, K1.
Rep these 2 rows for 144” [148”] BLOCKED.
CUFF RUFFLES:
Work same as bodice ruffle for 18” [20”].
Work same as bodice ruffle for 18” [20”].
COLLAR RUFFLE:
Work same as bodice ruffle for 32” [34”}.
Work same as bodice ruffle for 32” [34”}.
SKIRT UPPER RUFFLE:
Work same as bodice ruffle for 120” [126”}.
Work same as bodice ruffle for 120” [126”}.
SKIRT CENTER RUFFLE:
Work same as bodice ruffle for 130” [138”].
Work same as bodice ruffle for 130” [138”].
SKIRT LOWER RUFFLE:
Work same as bodice ruffle for 140” [150”].
Work same as bodice ruffle for 140” [150”].
NOTE:
Skirt is made in 3 pieces, named 14 & 15, 14A & 15A, & 14B & 15B.
Skirt is made in 3 pieces, named 14 & 15, 14A & 15A, & 14B & 15B.
Planned skirt length from natural waistline to lower ruffle
is 42”.
Upper section meas approx 22”, & sections A & B
each meas approx 12”.
To lengthen or shorten skirt lengthen or shorten each piece
proportionately.
FABRIC SKIRT:
RUFFLE PLACEMENT LINES:
On patt pieces 14 & 15 meas up 2 3/8” from 1st line marked “Sew lace here for view B”.
RUFFLE PLACEMENT LINES:
On patt pieces 14 & 15 meas up 2 3/8” from 1st line marked “Sew lace here for view B”.
Mark this line for upper ruffle placement line. Cut along
this line.
Lower skirt patt pieces are now named 14A & 15A.
Mark upper edges of 14A & 15A for center ruffle
placement line.
Pin patt pieces 14A & 15A to large piece of tissue or
wrapping paper.
Lengthen each piece 12” below center ruffle placement line.
Mark this line for lower ruffle placement line.
Then meas 3” below lower ruffle placement line.
Meas along lower edge, extend this line 12” out from side
seam edge.
Draw new side seam edge by connecting upper edge of patt
piece to extended lower edge.
Cut along center ruffle placement & lower ruffle
placement lines.
Mark 12” piece 14B & 15B, & lower 3” piece hem
band.
Cut out all 8 skirt patt pieces on dress fabric, & be
sure to have 5/8” seam allowance along all edges.
Sew center back seam of 14 to large dot indicated on patt.
Sew center back seams on 14A, 14B & lower hem band.
Sew side seams for all pieces [you now have 4 sep circular
sections].
Press all seams open.
Sew lace seam binding to right side of lower edge of hem
band.
ATTACH RUFFLES TO SKIRT:
UPPER RUFFLE:
From RS baste upper ruffle to seam line of section 1, & ease in extra length by making small pleats evenly around & have seam at center back.
UPPER RUFFLE:
From RS baste upper ruffle to seam line of section 1, & ease in extra length by making small pleats evenly around & have seam at center back.
Rep for section B by placing center ruffle on center ruffle
placement line.
Baste lower ruffle along upper edge of hem band, making
pleats as before.
Gather upper edge of skirt as shown on patt.
JOINING:
With RS tog pin lower edge of upper skirt section to ruffle & upper edge of section A.
With RS tog pin lower edge of upper skirt section to ruffle & upper edge of section A.
Match side & center back seams; sew seam 5/8” from raw
edges, be sure to keep ruffle free.
Press seam up.
Join other sections in same way; keep ruffles free &
adjust pleats, & match side & center seams.
LINING: PATT ADJUSTMENTS:
Length lower edges of bodice front & back [patt pieces 1 & 2] approx 1 ½” below cutting line.
Length lower edges of bodice front & back [patt pieces 1 & 2] approx 1 ½” below cutting line.
Extend bodice front neckline edge 1” evenly around.
Lengthen center back seam 2” at neck edge & connect
this line to beg of shoulder for new back neck edge.
Trace around knitted cuff pieces on tissue paper & add
5/8” seam allowance around entire outer edge.
Tape tog top, middle, lower & hem patt sections for
skirt front & back.
Cut out in lining fabric, bodice front, bodice back, cuff
[cut 2], skirt front & skirt back.
Depending on width of fabric, sleeves will probably need to
be cut single thickness.
TULLE UNDERLINING:
On tulle or netting, cut out patt pieces for sleeves, skirt front & back.
On tulle or netting, cut out patt pieces for sleeves, skirt front & back.
Sew tulle center back seam to large dot shown on patt. Sew
side seams.
Assemble skirt lining in same way.
Baste tog wrong side of tulle to RS of skirt lining at upper
edges.
Run gathering thread along upper edge.
Assemble bodice lining, following printed patt directions
for front darts, shoulder & side seams, using French seams.
SLEEVES:
Sew tulle to RS of sleeve lining around all edges.
Sew tulle to RS of sleeve lining around all edges.
Gather sleeve cap bet notches.
With tulle to inside, fold sleeve in half & sew sleeve
seam, using French seams.
Set sleeve lining into bodice lining arms, using French
seams.
Assemble knitted bodice & leave center back seam open.
With seams to inside, tack lining to bodice along shoulder
& side seams; baste lower edge of bodice lining to lower edge of knitted
bodice along zipper at center back edge,
With WS tog, adjust gathers on skirt & sew bodice to
skirt, matching side seams & center back opening, & catching lower
front & back edges of knitted bodice ruffle.
Set in zipper & keep knitted bodice free, BE SURE to
match waistline seam.
Sl st knitted bodice along zipper at center back edge, BE
SURE to match bodice ruffles.
Turn skirt lining & tulle, so that RS of tulle is next
to WS of skirt lining.
Draw up gathering thread & sl st to waistline seam, so
that RS of lining is to inside of dress.
CUFF:
With RS tog, baste cuff ruffle to 1 long edge of each cuff & make small pleats evenly across.
With RS tog, baste cuff ruffle to 1 long edge of each cuff & make small pleats evenly across.
With RS tog, sew cuff lining to knitted cuffs along 2 short
ends & ruffle edge, BE SURE to keep ruffle free. Turn & steam flat.
With WS tog, start & end ½” from sleeve seam, sew
knitted cuff to sleeve, pleating in extra sleeve fullness evenly around.
Sew cuff to sleeve, BE SURE to keep cuff lining free.
Press seam down towards ruffle.
Turn under cuff lining & sl st to seam edge.
Overlap cuffs slightly & sew 3 snaps on each cuff.
Sew 7 evenly spaced buttons down center front.
Turn up lining 3” & hem.
ENJOY!
HANDY
ABBREVIATIONS:
* repeat instructions
following single asterisk as directed
* * repeat instructions between
asterisks as many times as directed or repeat
from a given set of instructions
” inch[es]
Alt alternate
Approx approximately
Beg begin/beginning
Bet between
Bl back loop[s]
Bo bobble
Bp back post
Bpdc back post double crochet
Bpsc back post single
crochet
Bptr back post
treble/triple crochet
Ca color A
Cb color B
Cc contrasting color
Ch chain stitch
Ch refers to chain or space
previously
made: e.g ch-1
space
ch-sp chain space
Cl cluster
Cm centimeter[s]
Compl complete
Cont continue
Dc double crochet
Dc2tog double crochet 2 stitches
together
Dec decrease/decreases/decreasing
Dtr/Dtrc double treble/triple crochet
fl front loop[s]
Foll follow/follows/following
Fp front post
Fpdc front post double crochet
Fpsc front post single crochet
Fptr front post treble/triple
crochet
G gram
Hdc half double crochet
Hk hook
Inc increase/increases/increasing
Incl inclusive
K knit
lp[s] loop[s]
M meter[s]
M mesh
Mc main color
Meas measure
Mm millimeter[s]
O over [yarn
over]
Oz ounce[s]
P picot or purl
Pat[s] or patt pattern[s]
Pc st
or Pc popcorn
stitch
Pm place marker
Prev previous
PSSO pass slip stitch over
Rem remain/remaining
Rep repeat[s]
Rnd[s] round[s]
Rs right side
Sc single crochet
Sc2tog single crochet 2 stitches
together
Sdc short double
crochet [half double crochet]
Sk skip
Sl st slip stitch
Sp[s] space[s]
St[s] stitch[es]
Tch or t-ch turning chain
Tbl through back loop
Tog together
Tr or Trc treble/triple crochet
Trtrc or T Trc triple treble/triple crochet
Ws wrong side
YB yarn
back
Yd[s] yard[s]
YF yarn
forward
Yo yarn over
Yoh yarn over
