Tuesday, August 22, 2017

Free Pattern - 1939 Ginger Pop Two-Piece Cable Dress Suit #105

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1939 Ginger Pop Two-Piece Cable Dress Suit #105

An unusual collar on a short slim-fitting jacket--cables on the skirt--more cables on the jacket cut short to make a smooth plain yoke.

SIZE: 16

MATERIALS: 
Royal Society Chateau Crepe Fleck, 12 skeins [2 oz skeins].
Milward’s Phantom Knitting Pins, 1 pair #2 [2 ¾ mm].
29“ Circular Knitting Pin #2 [2 3.4 mm].
Milward’s Steel Crochet Hook #6.
5 Buttons.    
30” Elastic.    
¼ yd Crinoline.    
2 Shoulder Pads.

MEASUREMENTS:
BLOUSE: 
Bust--36”. 
Length from top of shoulder--18 ½”. 
Length of sleeve, underarm seam--4 ½”.
SKIRT: 
Waist--28”. 
Hips--38”. 
Length--28 ½”. 
Width at hem--64”.

GAUGE:  
[Cable, consisting of k 3, p 3, k 6, p 3] 15 sts = 1 ½”; 14 rows = 1”.
[Moss st] 10 sts = 1”; 16 rows = 1”.  The moss st on each side of cable will contract. 
Take all meas on cable patt, & block out moss st as req.
[St st--skirt] 9 sts = 1”; 12 rows = 1”.


BLOUSE:
BACK: 
Start at bottom, cast on 125 sts.

1st Row:  [K 1, p 1} 8 times [moss st]; * k 3, p 3, k 6, p 3.  Rep from * 5 more times, k 3, [p 1, k 1] 8 times [moss st].

2nd Row:  {K 1, p 1] 8 times [moss st]; * p 3, k 3, p 6, k 3.  Rep from * 5 more times, p 3, [p 1,  k 1] 8 times [moss st].

3rd to 6th Rows incl:  Rep 1st & 2nd rows alternately.

7th Row:  [K 1, p 1] 8 times, * k 3, p 3, make cable--to make cable, sl next 3 sts onto st holder & leave at back of work; k next 3 sts, k 3 sts from st holder--p 3.  Rep from * 5 more times, k 3, [p 1, k 1] 8 times.

8th Row:  Rep 2nd row.  Rep these 8 rows until piece meas 3”.  Then inc 1 st at both ends of next row & 1 row every 1 ½” thereafter until there are 135 sts on needle [sts added are worked into moss st patt]; at same time, when cable patt meas 7” in all, work in moss st across 15 sts of 1st cable patt [thus eliminate one cable], work in patt across rem sts [thus eliminate another cable]. 

Cont thus until cable patt meas 9” in all. 

Then work in moss st across rem sts [2 cable patts rem]. 

Cont thus until cable patt meas 10” in all [135 sts on needle].

TO SHAPE ARMHOLE: 
Bind off 5 sts at beg of each of next 2 rows. 

Then dec. 1 st at end of each row until 105 sts rem. 

Work straight until rem cables meas 13” in all. 

Hereafter work these 105 sts entirely in moss st until piece meas 6 ½” from 1st row of armhole shaping. 

To shape shoulders, bind off 6 sts at beg of each row until 45 sts rem.  Bind off.

RIGHT FRONT: 
Start at bottom, cast on 88 sts.

1st Row:  Start at front edge, [p 1, k 1] 7 times, p 1, * k 3, p 3, k 6, p 3.  Rep from * 2 more times, k 3, [k 1, p 1] 12 times.

2nd Row:  [K 1, p1] 12 times, p 3, * k 3, p 6, k 3, p 3.  Rep from * 2 more times, p 1, [k 1, p 1] 7 times.

3rd to 6th Rows incl:  Rep 1st & 2nd rows alternately.

7th Row:  [P 1, k 1] 7 times, p 1, * k 3, p 3, make cable, p 3.  Rep from * 2 more times, k 3, [k 1, p 1] 12 times.

8th Row:  Rep 2nd row. 

Rep these 8 rows until piece meas 3”. 

Then inc 1 st at underarm edge on next row & 1 row every 1 ½” thereafter until there are 93 sts on needle, at same time making buttonhole 5 sts in from front edge after 2” & every 2 ¼” thereafter until 5 buttonholes in all are made -- to make buttonhole, on one row bind off 5 sts; on next row cast on 5 sts to replace those bound off--but, when 1st cable at underarm edge meas 7”, change 15 sts of this cable into moss st [as for Back]; change center cable to moss st when cable meas 9”. 

Work straight until piece meas 10 ½” [93 sts].

TO SHAPE ARMHOLE: 
Start at underarm edge, bind off 10 sts once & 3 sts every other row 3 times. 

Then dec. 1 st at armhole edge each row until 69 sts rem. 

When rem cable meas 11 ½”, work all sts entirely in moss st until piece meas 6 ½” from 1st row of armhole shaping. 

Then, start at armhole edge, bind off 6 sts for collar, for 3”. 

Then dec 1 st at shoulder edge each row until all sts are worked off.

LEFT FRONT: 
Work as for Right Front, reverse shapings & omit buttonholes.

SLEEVES: 
Start at bottom, cast on 100 sts & work in moss st for 1”.  Inc 1 st at both ends of next row & every 3rd row thereafter until there are 134 sts on needle. 

Work straight until piece meas 4 ¼”. 

To shape top of sleeve, bind off 8 sts at beg of each row until 90 sts rem. 

Then dec 1 st at both ends of every 3rd row until 30 sts rem.  Bind off.

Sew up underarm seams, ease in extra fullness of Fronts 1 ½” down from armhole shaping. 

Sew up shoulder seams, sewing straight part of collar along back of neck to center back. 

Sew dec edges of collar tog, form a point at center back. 

Find center top of sleeve & mark with pin. 

Meas off 2” on each side of pin & mark [3 pin marks]. 

Make dart at each pin, take off ½” on each side of pin & graduating it to nothing 1 ½” from top edge. 

Sew darts on wrong side. 

Sew up sleeve seams & sew in sleeves. 

Sew on Buttons to correspond with buttonholes. 

Sew in shoulder pads.

SKIRT: 
Start at bottom, with circular needle cast on 526 sts.  Join, being careful not to twist sts.

1st Rnd:  K 366, * p 3, k 3, p 3, k 6, p 3, k 3, p 3, k 44.  Rep from * once more, p 3, k 3, p 3, k 6, p 3, k 3, p 3.

2nd to 7th Rnd incl:  Rep 1st rnd.

8th Rnd:  K 366, * p 3, k 3, p 3, make cable, p 3, k 3, p 3, k 44.  Rep from * once more, p 3, k 3, p 3, make cable, p 3, k 3. 

Rep these 8 rows until piece meas 3”.

Next Rnd:  [This rnd establishes where decs are to be made; mark decs with colored thread & make future decs in line with markings; 1 st less bet decs on each dec-rnd.]   K 2 tog, * k 11, k 2 tog.  Rep from * 27 more times, **work in patt across next 24 sts [cable panel], k 2 tog, [k 12, k 2 tog] 3 times.  Rep from ** once more, work in patt across 2 sts of cable panel [37 sts dec** 7 more times [193 sts rem]; piece meas 27”]. 

Work straight until piece meas 28” or length desired.  Bind off loosely. 

Work row of sc around top of skirt. 

Then make casing as follows:  P * Ch 5, sl st in 8th rnd down from top on wrong side & 4 sts to left; ch 5, sl st in 8th st from last st at top edge.  Rep from * around.  Break off. 

Run elastic through casing. 

Work row of sc around lower edge of skirt.

ENJOY!


HANDY ABBREVIATIONS:

*                                   repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed
* *                                repeat instructions between asterisks as many times as directed or                                      repeat from a given set of instructions
”                                   inch(es)
Alt                              alternate
Approx                      approximately
Beg                             begin/beginning
Bet                             between
Bl                                back loop(s)
Bo                               bobble
Bp                               back post
Bpdc                          back post double crochet
Bpsc                           back post single crochet
Bptr                           back post treble/triple crochet
Ca                               color A
Cb                               color B
Cc                               contrasting color
Ch                               chain stitch
Ch                               refers to chain or space previously
made: e.g                  ch-1 space
ch-sp                          chain space
Cl                               cluster
Cm                              centimeter(s)
Compl                                    complete
Cont                           continue
Dc                               double crochet
Dc2tog                      double crochet 2 stitches together
Dec                             decrease/decreases/decreasing
Dtr/Dtrc                   double treble/triple crochet
fl                                front loop(s)
Foll                            follow/follows/following
Fp                               front post
Fpdc                           front post double crochet
Fpsc                           front post single crochet
Fptr                           front post treble/triple crochet
G                                 gram
Hdc                            half double crochet
Hk                               hook
Inc                               increase/increases/increasing
Incl                             inclusive
K                                 knit
lp(s)                           loop(s)
M                                 meter(s)
M                                 mesh
Mc                               main color
Meas                          measure
Mm                              millimeter(s)
O                                 over (yarn over)
Oz                               ounce(s)
P                                 picot or purl
Pat(s) or patt          pattern(s)
Pc st or Pc              popcorn stitch
Pm                               place marker
Prev                           previous
PSSO                         pass slip stitch over
Rem                            remain/remaining
Rep                             repeat(s)
Rnd(s)                        round(s)
Rs                               right side
Sc                               single crochet
Sc2tog                      single crochet 2 stitches together
Sdc                             short double crochet (half double crochet)
Sk                               skip
Sl st                           slip stitch
Sp(s)                          space(s)
St(s)                           stitch(es)
Tch or t-ch               turning chain
Tbl                              through back loop
Tog                             together
Tr or Trc                  treble/triple crochet
Trtrc or T Trc         triple treble/triple crochet
Ws                              wrong side
YB                               yarn back
Yd(s)                          yard(s)
YF                               yarn forward
Yo                               yarn over

Yoh                             yarn over hook