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Vintage 1940s Vogue Surplice Blouse #166
An elegant surplice blouse with a smocked yoke. Perfect with your favorite suit, or on its own with a trim skirt. Make a skirt in matching yarn for a lovely two-piece dress. Just imagine this in Basic Black!
Directions are for size 16.
Changes for sizes 18 and 20 are in brackets
Spinnerin Coquette or Dressy, 12 [13-15] 1-oz skeins
#1 and #2 knitting needles
#4 steel crochet hook
1 Pair shoulder pads
15 sts = 2 ins;
1 rows = 1 in
With #1 needles, cast on 100 [110-120] sts.
Work even in stockinette st for 3 ins. [1 ½ ins are allowed for hem].
Inc across next row at even intervals to 126 [134-142] sts.
Change to #2 needles and p back.
Continue in stockinette st, increasing 1 st each end every 4th row 12 times; 150 [158-166] sts.
Work even until 10 ½ [11-11] ins from hem or desired length to underarm.
Cast on 12 sts at beg of next 2 rows.
Work even until sleeve is 5 ½ [6-6 ½] ins.
Work 2 darts in center back of neck.
Place a marker each side of center 28 [30-32] sts.
Dec 1 st each side of each marker [4 sts decreased] every k row 5 times.
[TO DEC: Work to within 3 sts of marker, k 2 tog, k 1, sl marker from 1 needle to the other, then k 2 tog].
Work even until 7 ½ [8-8 n½] ins from beg of sleeve.
Bind off 12 [13-14] sts at beg of next 6 rows.
Bind off remaining sts.
With # 1 needles, cast on 90 [96-100] sts.
Work even in stockinette st for 3 ins.
At beg of next k row [center front edge] bind off 10 sts, then k 15, inc 1 st in each of next 30 sts, across.
Change to #2 needles and p back, casting on 10 sts at end of p row for underlap 120 [126-130] sts.
Work last 10 sts for underlap in reverse stockinette st throughout [p is right side].
Work even for 1 ½ ins.
Place a marker on needle after first 20 sts at center front edge [border].
Keeping underarm edge even, dec 1 st inside border [after marker] every 4th row until is same length as back to underarm.
Cast on 12 sts at beg of next row at sleeve edge.
Continue to dec 1 st inside border every 4th row until same time, when sleeve is 3 [3-3 ½] ins work smock-stitch yoke.
On next k row, p 10, k 10, work in rib of p 2, k 2 across next 54 [58-62] sts, k to end of row.
P back, working in ribbing across center 54 [58-62] sts.
Work in this manner until there are 6 rows of ribbing, ending with wrong side.
7th row: [Twist Row]: P 10, k 10, p 2, * insert right-hand needle between the 6th and 7th sts on left-hand needle and draw up a loop loosely, k 2 tog, p 2, k 2, p 2; repeat from * across ribbing: k across.
Work 7 rows of ribbing then on 8th row, start twist as follows: P 2, k 2, p 2; repeat from * in 7th row.
Continue in pattern, alternating twist row every 8th row until same length as back to shoulder.
Bind off 12 [13-14] sts at beg of underarm edge every other row 3 times, bind off all but center 20 sts [neckband].
Work even on these 20 sts until band is a little less than half-way around back of neck. Bind off.
Work to correspond with Right Front.
Seam shoulders and underarm.
Hem lower edge.
Hem back underlap.
With right side facing, work 1 row of sc around sleeves.
Seam neckband and sew to neck edge, easing in to fit.
Fold underlap back at neckband and sew.
Sew 2 hooks and eyes at both sides of waistband to close.
Block to size.
Reinforce shoulder seams with seam binding.
Tack in shoulder pads