Sunday, May 7, 2017

Free Pattern - Vintage 1950s Band-Trimmed Suit Jacket & Skirt #112 Knit

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Vintage Band-Trimmed Jacket & Skirt  #112


Hand-knitted suits travel well. 
Knit one in boucle—elegant, uncrushable, very easy to wear.

INSTRUCTIONS are for a 32 inch bust. 
Changes for 34, 36 & 38 are given in brackets.

MATERIALS: 
For the jacket: 
14 [15, 15, 16] oz of Sirdar boucle wool
1 Pair each Needles, #11 & #13              
1” Grosgrain Ribbon                       
5 Buttons
For the skirt: 
13 [14, 15, 16] oz of wool   
1 Circular Needle #11                    
1” Elastic

MEASUREMENTS: 
To fit a 32 [34, 36, 38] inch bust,
34 [36, 38, 40] inch hip. 
Length of jacket:  22 [22 1/4, 23. 23 1/4] inches. 
Sleeve seam:  18 inches. 
Length of skirt:  30 inches.

GAUGE: 
8 sts & 10 rows = 1” over st 1

STITCHES: 
[1] Main part is in st st. 
[2] Trim is in moss st.

JACKET:  BACK: 
With #13 needles, cast on 120 [128, 136, 144]. 

Work in st 1.  Work in 1”, end with a k row. 

K next row to mark hemline. 

Change to #11 needles.  Work 1”. 

Dec 1 each end of next & every 6th row until 102 [110, 118, 126] sts rem. 

Work until back meas 7 ½” from hemline. 

Inc 1 each end of next & every 4th row until there are 128 [136, 144, 152] sts. 

Work until back meas 15 [15, 15 1/2, 15 1/2] ins from hemline or desired length to armholes.

Shape armholes: 
Cast off 6 [7, 8, 9] at beg of next 2rows. 

Dec 1 each end of every k row until 100 [104, 108, 112] sts rem. 

Work until armholes are 7 [7 1/4, 7 1/2, 7 3/4] ins, meas on the straight.

Shape shoulders: 
Cast off at beg of next & following rows 8 [8, 9. 9] sts 6 times & 8 [9, 7, 8] twice. 

Cast off rem 36 [38, 40, 42] sts for neck.

LEFT FRONT: 
With #13 needles, cast on 58 [62, 66, 70]. 

Work in st 1.  Work 1”, end with k row.

Next row:  Cast on 10 for front edge, k to end to mark hemline. 

Change to #11 needles.  Work 1”, end with p row. 

Dec 1 at beg of next & every 6th row until 58 [62, 66,70] sts remain. 

Work until front meas 7 ½” from hemline, end with p row. 

Inc 1 at beg of next & every 4th row until there are 72 [76, 80, 84] sts. 

Work until front meas same as back to armholes; end with p row.

Shape armhole: 
Cast off 7 [8, 9. 10] at beg of next row. 

Dec 1 at same edge every row 4 times, then every alternate row until 58 [60, 62, 64] sts rem.

Work until armhole is 5 [5 1/2, 5 1/2, 5 3/4] ins, meas on straight, end at center-front edge.

Shape neck: 
Cast off at beg of next & following p rows 10 sts once, 4 [5, 6, 7] once, 4 once & 2 four times. 

Work until armhole meas same as those of back.

Shape shoulder: 
Cast off at armhole edge 8 [8, 9, 9] sts 3 times & 8 [9, 7, 8] once.

RIGHT FRONT: 
Follow instructions for left front, reverse shapings & work first buttonhole when center-front edge measures 5 1/4 [5 1/2, 5 1/4, 5 1/2] ins as follows; k 3, cast off 4, k to end. 

In next row cast on 4 above cast-off sts of preceding row. 

Work 4 more buttonholes 3 1/2 [3 1/2, 3 3/4, 3 3/4] ins apart, finish 5th buttonhole ¾” below neck edge.

SLEEVES: 
With #13 needles, cast on 68 [70, 72, 74]. 

Work in st 1.  Work 1” end with a k row. 

K next row to mark hemline. 

Change to #11 needles.  Work 1”. 

Inc 1 each end of next & every 8th row until there are 96 [100, 104, 108] sts. 

Work until sleeve meas 18” from hemline or desired seam length.

Shape top: 
Cast off 6 [7. 8. 9] st at beg of next 2 rows. 

Dec 1 each end of next 3 rows, then every k row until 42 sts rem. 

Cast off 3 at beg of next 8 rows.  Cast off.

TRIMMING: 
With size 13 needles, cast on 12. 

Work in st 2.  Work ½”.

Next row:  Work 6, turn. 

Work 6 rows on these 6 sts. 

Break wool, join to rem 6 sts, work 8 rows, then work across first 6 sts. 

Cont until band is long enough to face neck edge. 

Work 4 strips for front in same way 6 [ 5, 4 1/2, 4] ins long. 

Work 4 more strips same lengths, omit buttonholes.

TO MAKE UP: 
Sew shoulder seams. 

Set in sleeves. 

Sew side & sleeve seams. 

Sew neck band round neck, ease it at neck edge & stretch other edge to fit round. 

Turn up & sl st hems. 

Sew bands to fronts as illustrated. 

Face center-front edges with ribbon. 

Cut buttonholes in facing & buttonhole st ribbon & knitting tog.  Press well. 

Sew on buttons.

SKIRT: 
With circular needle cast on 380 [400, 420, 440]. 

Work in st 1.  Work to and fro for 1”, end with k row. 

K next 2 rows to mark hemline. 

Now join, taking care not to twist sts, & k every round. 

Work until skirt meas 6” from hemline [always meas from hemline].

1st dec rnd:  * K 36 [38, 40, 42], k 2 tog, rep from * to end. 

Work until skirt meas 8”.

2nd dec rnd:  * K 35 [37, 39, 41], k 2 tog, rep from * to end. 

Work until skirt meas 10”. 

Work 3rd dec rnd with 1 st less between decs. 

Cont to dec 10 sts every 2”, have 1 st less bet decs each time, until 290 [310, 330, 350] sts rem. 

Dec every inch until 260 [280, 300, 320] sts rem, then every 6th round until 200 [210, 220, 240] rem. 

Work until skirt is 29” or 1” less then desired length.  Cast off.

TO MAKE UP: 
Turn up & sl st hem. 

Sew elastic to waist in casing st. 

Press well on wrong side, allow skirt to stretch 1” in length.


ENJOY!